Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Image

2014 Guidelines

This is the Tree Program flier

Here is the 2014 order form

TREE AND SHRUB DESCRIPTIONS

  • All tree or shrub species must be ordered in lots of 10 for each species with a minimum order of 1 lot.  If this is too many for you, split it with a friend.
  • These are 1-3 year old bare root tree and shrub seedlings.
  • A maximum of 30 lots (300 total tree & shrub seedlings) per order.
  • Orders are taken through March 31, 2014.  Orders postmarked after March 31, 2014 will not be accepted.
  • Payment in full must be received with your order or it will not be processed.
  • Make check payable to: Land Conservation & Forest Mgmt and mail to: Chippewa Co. LCFM, 711 N. Bridge St., Room 11, Chippewa Falls, WI 54729
  • All sales are final.  No refunds or exchanges.
  • Please inspect your order at pick up.  If you find an item missing, you must notify us immediately.
  • Orders not picked up on the designated date will be donated to a non-profit conservation organization and NO REFUND will be issued.
  • There is no guarantee/warranty on any tree survival.  To minimize loss, follow proper planting and care instructions provided to you at the time of pick up.
  • Pending cooperation from Mother Nature, tree order pick up is tentatively set for Friday April 25, 2014, at the Chippewa County Courthouse.  Final confirmation, along with pick up instructions, will be sent to you approximately 2 weeks prior to pick up.
  • If you have questions, contact Lisa at the Dept. of Land Conservation & Forest Management, 715-726-7920.
  • All proceeds will be distributed to local youth and conservation organizations to support environmental education and leadership training.

 

Sue Martin, Sue Larson and Carol Buchholtz presented their Library Gardening Program and demonstrated use of the boards and materials at the CVMGA October meeting. A PowerPoint presentation was shown detailing the project. They had 21 children, ages 4yrs to 12 yrs, who participated in the 8 week long program. The parents of participants and residents from a nearby Nursing Home also got involved, offering support and gardening advice to the children. The program was wrapped up with a potluck using some of the produce grown over the 8 weeks in their garden. This program was very successful and touched many lives in the process and they have already been invited back for next year. Below is an outline of the program, and any member interested in this program can find more information by contacting Carol, Sue or Sue or as always, Mary Jo Fleming. Great Job Ladies!

Library Gardening Schedule

Thursday 2PM Summer Library Reading Program

May 30 Prep Garden after 2PM

June 6th Plant Garden 3:30
• Snack at the library, walk to library garden
• Plant garden

June 20th Plant Development, Soil & Water
• Overview 5-10 min.
• Plant dissection activity – work in pairs
• Walk to garden: weed, water and record in journal

June 26th Insects
• Overview 5-10 min.
• Craft: Make insects
• Walk to garden: water, weed, record in journal

July 11 Vegetable and Herbs
• Overview 5-10 min.
• Activity – composting
• Walk to garden: weed, water, record in journal

July 18th Ecology and Environment of Horticulture
• Overview 5-10 min.
• Activity: rain gauge
• Walk to garden: weed, water, record in journal

July 25th Party – Food with produce grown

The following is a list of some of the more common butterflies native to Wisconsin and their host plants.  Most of these are in the Butterfly House at Beaver Creek Reserve at some point in the season.  Emergence times vary by species so they will not all be in the House at once.

 

Swallowtails

Tiger swallowtail- cherry,  willow, birch, basswood, aspen, cottonwood

Black swallowtail- carrot, dill, fennel, parsley, (members of the carrot family)

Brush-footed Butterflies

  Fritillaries

  Great Spangled fritillary-violets

  Checkerspots, Crescents and Angelwings

Silvery Checkerspot-purple cone flower and other coneflowers

Pearl Crescent- Asters

Question mark- elm, nettle, hackberry

Comma-hops, elm, nettle, hackberry

Comptons Tortoiseshell- white birch, aspen , willows

Mourning cloak- willows, aspen, birch, elm, cottonwood, hackberry

Milberts tortoiseshell-nettles

American Painted Lady- thistle, daisy, pearly and sweet everlasting.

Painted lady- thistle, daisy and pearly and sweet everlasting

  Admirals and Viceroy

Red admiral-nettles

White admiral- birch, willow,poplar, cottonwood

Red spotted purple- cherry, oak, aspen, willow, cottonwood

Viceroy- willows, poplar, fruit trees, cottonwood

  Satyrs, and Wood Nymphs

Little wood satyr- grasses

Common wood nymph- grasses

  Milkweed

Monarch- milkweeds(swamp, common, butterfly weed)

Gossamer Wing

  Gray hairstreak-clover, alfalfa, legumes

Eastern tailed blue- clover, trefoil, peas, alfalfa, vetch

Blue azure- flowers and flower buds of dogwood, snakeroot, spirea

Whites and Sulphurs

  Cabbage white- cabbage, broccoli, kale, mustard, (Brassicas)

Clouded sulphur-clover, alfalfa, sweet clover

 

Skippers

Silver spotted skipper-locust, legumes, false indigo

Other skipper species- grasses and sedges.

Easy Plants for Butterfly Gardens

Annuals-Host plants

-Cabbage, Broccoli, Kale, Kohlrabi, -host for Cabbage white

-Viola-Host for Fritillaries

-Parsley, dill-Host for Black Swallow

-Snapdragon-Host for Common Buckeye

Nectar Plants

-Zinnia-especially single flower types lime Profusion, Starbright

-Marigolds-especially single flower types

-Alyssum

-Cosmos

-Ageratum

 

Native plants(all good nectar plants):

A(+) in front of the name indicates need for wetter soil)

-Butterfly Weed-host for monarchs

-Wild Bergamot(Bee balm)-can be invasive, plant in pots-

-Purple coneflower- Host for Silvery Checkerspots

+Boneset

-Aster-host plant for Pearl Crescent

+Joe Pye weed

-Coreopsis

-Liatris(blazing star, gay feather)

-Black eyed susan-Host plant for Silvery Checkerspots

-Anise Hyssop

 

Some butterfly Plants for Partial Shade

 

All are nectar plants-an (H) behind the listed plant indicated that it is also a host plant.

Annuals                                                Perennials                                        Perennials

-Pansy, Viola(H)                              -Astibe                                             -Wild Blue Phlox

-Verbena                                          -Turtlehead(H)                               -Violets(H)

-Petunia                                            -Purple Coneflower                      -Lobelia, Cardinal Flower

-Impatiens                                        -Joe Pye Weed                              -Swamp Milkweed(H)

-Cosmos                                            -Daylily                                            – Columbine

-Snapdragon                                    -Lavender

-Nicotiana                                         -Blazing Star

 

Courtesy of Beaver Creek Reserve

Companion Planting

Image from patchworkveg

Image from patchworkveg

by Sydney J. Tanner

Chemical, physical, and spatial interaction between plants has been scrupulously studied both in the garden and in the kitchen for centuries. Companion planting in the garden is a way to use that knowledge and nurture symbiotic relationships between plants. The theory of beneficial planting has deep roots in folklore and millennia of garden records and stories. Most of it’s scientific roots display basic common sense and have been used for the most part, in small-scale and home gardens.

Ever since Rachel Carson’s book Silent Spring was published in 1962, the environment and natural gardening have been pushed into the public view. In the 1970s, there was a movement toward “back to the land” and organic gardening and farming. Books, magazines, and pamphlets were published detailing the “brand new concepts” of composting and mulching. Articles in The Mother Earth News discussed in detail the “how tos” of organic gardening and companion planting. Many master gardening gurus like Ruth Stout, Mansanobu Fukuoka, John Battendieri, Robert Rodale, and Louise Riotte made the circuit with lectures and workshops. I listened to them.

Companion planting was (and still is) considered one of the mysterious secrets of organic gardening. Books, magazine articles, and pamphlets are still being published with information about it. The basic premise is, to plant one type of plant next to a different species that will give both plants benefits. In some places it is still a hot topic and passionately debated.

The idea was certainly not brand new. It is ancient, and just re-discovered in the 1970s with a push for the gardening and farming population to join in. Throughout history, companion planting has been practiced by many cultures all over the world, not just on our continent. Oriental gardeners used the knowledge for crop productivity. The Romans and Greeks used it for pest control. The Native American “Three Sisters” (corn, beans, and squash) are frequently planted together as a sacred rite.

In her books Roses Love Garlic and Carrots Love Tomatoes, Louise Riotte details hundreds of ideas of what to plant next to what in the garden and orchard. When I was in college, I had to study Riotte’s work. I found the ideas fascinating, but put her into the “organic kook” category with other “new age” thinkers and dismissed the work because it wasn’t scientific enough for me. Over thirty plus years (and more than that gardens) later, I picked up, and studied her work again as a Master Gardener. Now I’m impressed at her insight and knowledge.

The scientific studies of companion plantings have just given chemical analysis, reaction names, and the “technical why” to the way planting systems work. The systems would have worked without the science. They’ve worked for over a thousand years and they’ll continue without the science. However, it is nice to know there’s a reason behind the adages.

There is an agricultural formula called the land equivalent ratio (LER) that scientists use to measure the success of intercropped plantings. This is the ratio of harvest from an area of single cropped land to the area of companion planted land. Research has shown that the same yield can be produced from a smaller area that is intercropped. Companion planting works. Advocates for container, raised bed, strawbale, and square foot gardening know this concept pretty well, and practice it. If it works for small square foot gardens, why wouldn’t it work for large scale farming? The answer is, that it does!

Many gardeners companion plant and just call it by another name. Nurse cropping, intercropping, or interplanting is one method of companion planting that some gardeners follow. It is the practice of planting a tall, densely canopied crop, with a shorter, more delicate crop underneath. An example would be growing corn and beans together. The corn stalk provides the trellis for the beans, or planting oats and alfalfa together. The taller oats, protect the alfalfa as it gets established. Sometimes, the method is called “mixed planting” or polyculture. At least two vegetable or herbs are planted at the same time, in the same place.

Not only does polyculture increase productivity, it encourages biodiversity, creating a stronger agricultural atmosphere. Biodiversity brings harmony to the garden. In today’s “Going Green” society, polyculture or companion planting is again “re-discovered” as part of the “new” reconciliation ecology movement. That’s another big title for knowing and living close to the land.

Some helper plants, like marigolds, need more than one season in a place to be effective on nematodes. This is called accumulative protection. In planting “the Three Sisters” together, the gardener creates a sustainable atmosphere and soil, with the three plants nurturing each other, the soil, suppressing the weeds, and evading pests.

A little time needs to be spent deciding on pairing fast vs. slow growing, long vs. short season, and the nutritional needs involved with the paired plants. With a little planning, gardeners can choose inventive succession pairings in their seasonal plantings to help with specific garden problems or pests.

Pest control is a major benefit from companion planting. Certain companion plants can be hosts for helpful insects and arthropods. Other plants can be planted to lure pests to their leaves and branches. This practice is called trap-cropping. These decoy plant attractants act as a congregating place for pests or a pathogen. An example of this would be planting nasturtiums to attract aphids and flea beetles, to keep them away from your other plants. There are even companion plants to help rid your garden of Japanese beetles!

To get started, there are plentiful resources from the old standby books and articles, to Internet sites devoted to nothing but companion planting. UW Extension Services has published several articles regarding the virtues of companion planting, both on general terms and specific plants. These are available at your local extension office or online. Each gardener that discovers companion planting and uses the knowledge to better his/her garden, makes the world a little better.

 

 

Do NOT plant alliums near beans, peas, parsley, sage,
DO plant alliums near nightshades, brassicas (rabbit deterrent), carrots, chamomile

Do NOT plant asparagus near alliums, potatoes, garlic, iris, gladiolas
DO plant asparagus parsley, basil, tomatoes (bug trap for beetles), lettuce,

Do NOT plant beets near mustards, pole beans,
DO plant beets near curcurbits (especially kohlrabi), lettuces, alliums, catnip, garlic, mint

Do NOT plant brassicas (turnips, baggies, cauliflower, bok choy, broccoli, cabbage, collard, kohlrabi, brussels sprouts, …) near nightshades, strawberries, legumes, some other brassicas,
DO plant brassicas near mustards, celery (deters cabbage butterfly), chamomile, mints, sage, rosemary, thyme (especially with cabbage), tansy, nasturtiums,

Do NOT plant carrots near apple trees, parsnips, radishes, anise, dill,
DO plant carrots near tomatoes, alliums, herbs (like rosemary), beans, peas,

Do NOT plant celery near corn, asters, parsnips, potatoes,
DO plant celery near alliums, nightshades (except potatoes), brassicas, beans, peas, curcurbits, snapdragons,

Do NOT plant corn near nightshades (except potatoes), celery,
DO plant corn near curcurbits (especially cucumbers which raccoons hate), legumes, potatoes, morning glory, sunflowers, peas,

Do NOT plant curcurbits near nightshades (especially potato), sage,
DO plant curcurbits near corn and beans (3 sisters), tansy, catnip, radishes (which is a bug trap crop), buckwheat, chamomile,

Do NOT plant horseradish near carrot, curcurbits, raspberries, sunflowers, tomatoes,
DO plant horseradish near potatoes,

Do NOT plant beans near alliums, sunflowers,
DO plant beans near savory, corn, celery, curcurbits, eggplant (mutual bug repellents), spinach,

Do NOT plant lettuces near broccoli,
DO plant lettuces near garlic, alliums, asparagus, carrots, sunflowers, strawberries,

Do NOT plant nightshades (tomato, eggplant, potato, peppers) near peas, other nightshades, brassicas, beans, corn, fennel dill, curcurbits (cucumber, squash, melons)
DO plant nightshades near carrots, alliums, mint, basil, oregano, geranium, petunia, marjoram, horseradish,

Do NOT plant peas near alliums, garlic,
DO plant peas near spinach, beans, carrots, turnips,

Growing and Preserving Heirloom Seeds

Notes from a presentation by Brian Hefty

 

Heirlooms are over 50 years old or at least before 1951 when hybrids were introduced.

Open pollinated, diverse, disease resistant, and there’s a story and history to them.

Why grow heirlooms? Preservation of a variety, maintain genetic diversity, being a part of history, growing something that has better taste and hardiness.

 

Why save seed?

Plants are adapted to your own garden. Taste, disease resistance, hardiness, preserves a variety, saves money, challenging, fun.

 

Basics of seed saving

  • Select seed from plants with the traits you want.
  • Save from healthiest plants or fruit.
  • Save from more than one plant.
  • Let it fully ripen before harvesting.
  • Store dry seeds in a cool dark place in an air tight container.
  • Longevity of seeds varies from plant to plant.
  • Always label all seed with name of the plant, variety and date collected.

 

Open pollinated – produce the save

Hybrid – may not produce the same

Self pollinated – Can pollinate itself – Perfect flowers

Cross pollination – Needs two plants to pollinate, a male and female – Plants like corn

 

Tomato

The Seed Saver Exchange has 4,358 listed varieties

  • Perfect flower, seldom crossed
  • Different varieties can be grown together with little danger of crossing
  • Can store seed for 3-7 years
  • Peppers are similar

Eva Purple Ball – has lots of juice

Juane Flamme Tomato – apricot colored, great for drying or roasting.

Wis 55 Gold Tomato – 6-8oz with meaty fruit

 

Squash

Seed Saver Exchange has 374 listed varieties

*Pollinated by insects

*Varieties in same species can cross

* Store seed for 2-5 years

 

Lettuce

Seed Saver Exchange has 276 listed varieties

  • Self pollinated
  • Store seed for 1-5 years

Brown Winter Lettuce

Bronze Arrowhead Lettuce – Slow to bolt

 

Carrots

The Seed Saver Exchange has 421 listed varieties

  • Biennial
  • Crosses with Queen Anne’s Lace
  • Store seed for 1-5 years
  • Beets and leeks are similar

Red Cored

Chantenay Carrots

 

Garlic

The Seed Saver Exchange has 300 listed varieties

  • Plant mid October, cover bed with straw, grass, leaves and in late June/ early July the scapes will come
  • Garlic is grown through cloning

German – Extra hardy garlic, good keeper

Romanian Red

 

Resources

Where to get seed

Taylors Guide to Heirloom Vegetables

Plum Creek Seeds – Arkansas WI

Wild Garden Seeds – On web

Seed Savers Exchange

Fedco – On web

Sand Hill Preservation Center – On web

 

Books

Elliot Coleman – Winter Harvest – book

Seed to Seed – Suzanne Ashworth – book – The “bible” of seed saving

Growing Garden Seeds – Rob Johnston Jr. – book – Medium level of information

Wisdom of Plant Heritage – Brian Connolly, CR Lawn – book – Easy level of information

In the December e-newsletter, we sent a link to the on-line CVMGA Volunteer Feedback Survey. Twenty-four members took part in the survey that was designed to help the organization plan for the future and gather ideas for increasing the number of active volunteers.

Eighty percent of the respondents completed their volunteer and education hours for 2012. We would like to make it easier for as many CVMGA members as possible to reach these goals. Some suggestions were to offer a greater variety of volunteer opportunities and to have more projects that could be done at a member’s convenience. The board is in the process of setting up a grant program that will encourage new volunteer opportunities.

Members also had useful suggestions for improving the Master Gardener experience. One suggestion was to have a member data base that could connect MG’ers with others who have similar interests. Another was to appoint a volunteer coordinator. Mentoring was also suggested as a way to encourage new Master Gardener graduates to move from the classroom to volunteering.

And, finally, the survey identified areas of interest for future programs. Some of the most popular—vegetables, perennials, pruning, and insects—are also 2013 Think Spring Seminar topics. The Program Committee appreciates the input for future meetings.

 
Thank you all for taking time to complete the survey. Hopefully, 2013 will see some of these ideas implemented to make the CVMGA experience more beneficial for members, UW Extension, and the Chippewa Valley community.

 
1. What was your initial motivation for taking the Master Gardener training?

  • Be a better gardener  95%
  • Network with other gardeners   35%
  • Help with professional development  10%
  • Become a trained volunteer  20%

2. How long have you been a Master Gardener volunteer?

  • Be a better gardener  95%
  • Network with other gardeners   35%
  • Help with professional development   10%
  • Become a trained volunteer   20%

3. Did you achieve 24 volunteer hours and 10 hours of education in 2012?

  • Yes 80%
  • No  20%

4. What could CVMGA do to help you reach your volunteer and education goals?

  • Have more opportunities available in different locations
  • Opportunities that can be done in free time
  • Keep volunteers informed about opportunities
  • Have more varieties of volunteer opportunities
  • Mentor 1st. year
  • Monthly speakers

5. In the past year, which CVMGA projects were you involved in?

  • Think Spring   77 %
  • Plant sale   65 %
  • Maintaining a public garden   47 %
  • Information booth at fair  35 %
  • Monthly meeting programs  66 %
  • Bluebird Trails   35 %
  • Newsletter/blog   18 %
  • Newspaper articles or gardening presentations to other groups  18 %

6. Do any of the current volunteer projects need to be dropped or improved to meet CVMGA goals?

  • Add education components to public gardens & plant sale;
  • Increase advertising for public programs

7. Rate the ways my volunteer experience has helped me…

Percents shown as
Very helpful, Helpful, and Not helpful

  • Develop leadership skills
    18 %,  59%, 24 %
  • Share knowledge
    40 %, 55 %, 5 %
  • Make social connections
    11 %,   84 %, 5 %
  • Contribute to the community
    32 %, 63 %, 5 %
  • Expand my knowledge into new areas
    45 %, 55%,  0 %

8. What program areas would affect your ability to become a more active volunteer?

Percents shown as
Very important, Important, and Least important

  • More direction from the officers and board
    33 %, 67 %,  0 %
  • A wider volunteer base
    59 %,  24 %,  18 %
  • Scheduling some meetings and projects in other areas of the county
    25 %,  19 %,  56 %
  • Better communication
    47 %, 53 %, 0 %
  • Mentoring
    40 %, 40 %, 20 %
  • Other (please specify)
    Time of day
    Busy schedule

9. Choose three general topics that you would like to see developed for
workshops, monthly programming open to the public, or displays in 2013.

  •  Vegetable gardening  76 %
  • Indoor plants  24 %
  • Perennials 35 %
  • Sustainable lawn care 29 %
  • Pruning shrubs & trees 35 %
  • Fruit production  18 %
  • Gardening with natives 35 %
  • Insects (pollinators, beneficial, harmful) 41 %
  • Landscape or garden design 35 %

Other (please specify)

  • Lakeshore restoration/buffer zones
  • Bees
  • Climate change/ zone shifting
  • New hardy plants
  • Winter gardening under artificial lights, cold frames, etc.

10. What would improve your Master Gardener experience?

  • Getting more involved and finding other M.G.’s with similar interests
  • Having projects that fit my schedule
  • Larger group to draw from for volunteer activities
  • More emphasis on education rather than fund raising
  • More hands-on learning
  • Positive attitudes; turn frustrations into fun experiences
  • Fewer meetings with better attendance
  • Volunteer coordinator

On October 9, 2012 Diana Alfuth gave a presentation on” Trees and Shrubs for a Sustainable Landscape”. She reminded us that the five elements of design are: a) function, b) maintainability, c) environmentally friendly, d) cost effective, and e) and visually pleasing. Healthy trees can add 15% to the value of a home; and trees that are fifty feet or over effectively ground a house, provide a shelter or ceiling to outdoor rooms, and mitigate the effects of sun and wind. She also suggested that trees be planted as part of a well-designed bed that steps the eye from ground cover to small and medium shrubs to trees.
Diana reminded us of a variety of common tree diseases: Dutch elm, oak wilt which is more prevalent in the red oak family, rhizosphaera in blue spruce, emerald ash borer, bronze birch borer in paper birch, and butternut canker.  When landscape trees are selected, two problems lead to unhealthy or diseased trees.  The first is that we tend to over-plant certain species.  After the elms died, maples and seedless ashes were planted widely in the landscape. Paper birch and blue spruce were also popular even though they fail to thrive in urban/suburban settings.
The key to healthy trees is to plant a diverse number of species that can tolerate our landscape. In the oak family – swamp white and pin oaks- are less susceptible to oak wilt and can even live with the disease. The red and black oaks are more likely to escape oak wilt if they are planted in beds that prevent damage to their bark and are not trimmed later than February. Some new elm varieties such as “Liberty” and “Centennial” are proving resistant to Dutch elm disease. Elms are exceptional trees that have pleasing shapes and can tolerate urban/suburban conditions. Walnuts provide wildlife benefits, and their lacy leaves allow grass to grow under them. Walnuts are hardy, drought-tolerant, and not only fast-growing but also long-lived. Another hardy nut-producing tree is the bitternut hickory that is slow to mature but can tolerate a wide range of conditions. Hackberry is a medium to fast-growing, long-lived tree that has an elm-like growth and is drought-tolerant. American linden or basswood is also an attractive tree. Black cherry has high wildlife value and is infrequently bothered by disease and can tolerate dry conditions. It can grow 75 ft. high. The common honey locust is also disease-resistant and allows grass and other vegetation to grow under it. It makes a good boulevard tree since it can tolerate small root zones. The river birch does much better in landscapes than the paper birch, and in spite of its name, is drought and heat resistant. The slow-growing sugar maple is sensitive to heat and drought, but the red maple grows faster and can tolerate less moisture and more soil compaction. It has the pretty fall color but might fit the needs of suburban landscapes. Nurseries often have poor selections of trees, and research needs to be done before buying. Nurseries supply what buyers want, but their uninformed choices are often inappropriate.